Elastic or corded fabric



UNITE STATES PATENT OFFICE.

TVILLIAM LAPXVORTH, OF EASTHAMPTON, ASSIGNOR TO THE I-IOPEDALE ELASTIC FABRIC COMPANY, OF HOPEDALE, MASSACHUSETTS.

ELASTIC OR CORDED FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION formingpart of Letters Patent No. 445,065, dated January 20, 1891.

Application filed December 8, 1886. Serial No. 184,560. (Specimensd To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, WILLIAM LAPWORTH, of Easthampton, county of Hampshire, and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Elastic or Corded Fabrics, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention has for its object the production of a novel elastic or corded fabric, the face of which presents alternating or diagonal raised or twilled and depressed or plain lines, the latter making the raised or twilled lines more prominent. If an elastic fabric is to be formed, rubber warps will be employed; but if a corded fabric is to be produced cord warps will be used instead of the rubber or elastic warps, the interchangeable use of rubber or cord warps being common in the art to produce either an elastic or acorded fabric, as described, the structure and pattern of an elastic or corded fabric woven with the same stitch being of course the same.

The fabric to be herein described contains face and back warps of the same or of different colors. The face and back are united by binder-warps, and the face warps are so controlled by the harness-frames that each face warp is up for three picks and down for one where the plain-woven face of the fabric 1s to appear; but where the twill is to appear the face warp is up for five and down for one pick, the face of the fabric so produced showing a twill with plain portions between, the entire pattern being woven in a ten-time motion or in a motion where ten sheds and picks are required to produce the pattern, four picks of the ten aiding in the formation of the depressed or plain portion of the face of the fabric and six picks aiding in the formation of the raised or twilled portion of the face of the fabric, so that it presents a diagonal ribbed appearance.

The back of the fabric, if woven in the same order, will present the same appearance as the face; but if desired the back may be woven in any other pattern, as commonly done.

Figure l in plan view represents a portion of a fabric embodying my invention, the warp and w ft being separated to better show the crossing of the threads. Fig. 2 is across-section of the fabric, showing the warps as they appear at the first shed or pick. Figs. 3 to 11, inclusive, are like views of the second to the tenth pick, inclusive; and Fig. 12 shows the first shed of the repeat, it being the same as Fig. 1. Fig. 13 is a view representing in lo11 gitudinal section a fabric woven in accordance with my invention.

All the face warp-threads a, b, c, d, and e, designated by like letters, will be controlled by heddles of different harness-frames, all those marked a being in one, I) in another, and so on, five harness-frames being employed for the face warps. The india-rubber or cord warps r will all be under the control of a separate harness-frame. The back warps f, g, h, 27, andj will be controlled by the heddles of five different harness-frames, all the threads designated by like letters, as f or g, being controlled by one harness-frame.

As herein shown, the back and face are woven alike in a ten-time motion, or ten picks are required to complete the pattern; but the order of shedding is such as to make alternate plain and twilled cross-stripes.

Referring to Fig. 2, which shows the first pick of the pattern, the face warp ais raised, it is down on the second, is up on the third pick, and remains up on the third, fourth, and fifth picks, going down on the sixth pick and up for the seventh, eighth, ninth, and tenth picks. The back thread f is up at the first pick, down on the second, third, and fourth picks, up on the fifth, and down on the sixth to the tenth picks, inclusive. The face thread I) is up for the first, second, and third picks, down on the fourth, up on the fifth to the seventh, inclusive, down on the eighth, and up on the ninth and tenth picks. The back thread 9 is down on the first and second picks, up on the third pick, down on the fourth, fifth, and sixth, up on the seventh, and down on the eighth to the tenth, inclusive. The face thread c is up on the first to the fifth picks, inclusive, down on the sixth pick, up on the seventh, eighth, and ninth, and down on the tenth pick. The rubber or cord warp is up on one and down on the next pick, alternately. The back Warp-threads h are down for the first, second, third, and fourth picks, up on the fifth pick, down on the sixth, seventh, and eighth, and up on the ninth and down on the tenth pick. The face warpthreads (1 are up on the first, down on the second, and up on the third, fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh, down on the eighth, and up on the ninth and tenth picks. The back threads '5 are up on the first, down 011 the second to sixth picks, up on the seventh, and

'down on the eighth, ninth, and tenth picks.

The face threads 6 are up on the first, second, and third picks, down on the fourth, up on the fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, and ninth, and down on the tenth pick. The back warpthreads j are down 011 the first and second picks, up on the third, down on the fourth to eighth, inclusive, up on the ninth, and down on the tenth pick. The binder 7a is down the first and up the second, and then up and down alternately to mock, as it is called, the rubber or cord warp 9".

In Fig. 13 I have represented a few only of the warp-threads of the face and back of the fabric adjoining the line of section. From be apparent.

and twill weaving give an attractive appearance to the fabric, while the manipulation of the'threads to effect the same produces a fabric with a very solid body and one in which the elastic warps are very strongly bound.

I claim The herein-described fabric, composed of face and back warps, binder-warps, rubberor cord warps, and successive picks of weft-thread uniting the said warps together, the face of the fabric being formed in ten-time motion, the face warps being each on the face or outer side of the weft for three picks, then on the inner or under side of the weft for one pick, next on the outer side of the said weft for five picks, and then on the inner side thereof for one pick to complete the pattern, the back warps and the Weft being similarly or differently interwoven to form the back of the fabric, the face and back warps being united by the binder-warps passing from the back to the face of the fabric, and vice versa, at each pick, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WILLIAM LAP ORT H.

\Vitnesses:

GEORGE M. JOHNSON, ALBERT W. Loo-Kn. 

